Branding Le P’tit Paysan as a fresh, friendly Rosé

TalesoftheCork Wine Reviews

Ian Brand continues to produce top shelf wines in Monterey, San Benito Counties

While a personal family crisis has shuttered much of my creativity this summer, it did not prevent me from seeking out and purchasing great Rosé bottles to drink poolside or enjoy with summer, backyard cuisine.

Today’s weekend wine choice for a hot August day was suggested by Fresno’s Stan Kato of The Grape Tray. In fact, Tim Fish of Wine Spectator mentioned the bottle in his July 22, 2013, 17 Pinks from California, article.

Ian Brand moved and is raising his young family in Monterey County to work its challenging vineyards, including the Spur Ranch Vineyard in San Benito County.
Ian Brand moved and is raising his young family in Monterey County to work the challenging vineyards, including the Spur Ranch Vineyard in San Benito County.

I’ll often shop at The Grape Tray because Stan takes the time to learn the taste preferences of both his Internet and local regulars and will alert me to bottles that may be of interest. So this week, instead of just picking up an old standby French Rosé to enjoy while I soaked in the pool, I purchased a bottle of Le P’Tit Paysan. Stan said why purchase another French when a California pink would “knock my socks off.”

And he was right. But I would add, “Ian Brand knocked my socks off.”

Normally, the epicenter of a good Rosé is found in the South of France; however, increasingly quality pink wines are found coming from growers and vintners of central California. Personally, I love the smell and taste of watermelon and strawberry and historically wines with a higher percentage of Grenache, Syrah or Mourvedre produce some of the best dry Rosés.

According to Jeanne Howard of MC Weekly, Ian Brand is the winemaker and driving force behind seven boutique wineries in Monterey County and consults with four other labels. Yet it is his Le P’Tit Paysan Mourvèdre San Benito County Rosé Pierre’s Pirouette 2012 that got me pouring today.

California’s 2012 vintage continues to create a buzz and Brand’s dry French-style Rosé is one of the best I have tasted this season in a state that has produced a plethora of outstanding examples. And winemakers are creating some outstanding pinks with Cinsault, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir.

In fact, I find myself scouring wine shelves looking for that perfect balance between fresh fruit aromas and a dry, crisp, light, refreshing taste. I also want to keep most of my Rosé purchases around $20 or less.

The 2012 Le P’Tit Paysan Mourvèdre had hints of rhubarb, blood orange but the dry Rosé shone its salmon hue and minerality much like its French counterparts.
The 2012 Le P’Tit Paysan Mourvèdre had hints of rhubarb, blood orange but the dry Rosé shone its salmon hue and minerality much like its French counterparts.

Tim Fish agreed with Stan when he wrote of Brand’s San Benito County gem: “Who needs French Rosé when California can make them this good?” I agree with Fish when he wrote Brand’s Le P’tit Paysan Pierre’s Pirouette is a “winning blend of Mourvèdre and Grenache that tastes like a pink from the Southern Rhône.”

Wine Enthusiast named Brand a rising star among winemakers in the April 2013 issue. To me his Rosé is a star which tops a great year of pink wine in 2012.

In my glass, the 2012 Le P’Tit Paysan Mourvèdre Rosé showed a beautiful salmon hue that complimented the subdued strawberry and apricot aromas. I grew up in the Northwest and enjoyed a hint of rhubarb before the dry taste of watermelon took over. Finally, the finish lingered with blood orange. I appreciated how Brand kept the flavors in check, including a noticeable but lovely minerality. The wine is balanced, full and ends with a soft spice. I drank a full pour (maybe two) while sitting in the steps of the pool. Later, I finished the bottle with a plate of charcuterie. While his Rosés may improve with another year in the bottle, Brand’s Le P’Tit Paysan wine can be enjoyed immediately.

Brand believes his Rosé’s success comes because his vines have difficulty growing in the Spur Ranch Vineyard over the limestone seabed, white rocks and fossil shells. The struggle creates thicker skins and stronger flavors. The scraggly vineyard is not only tough grow in but to work with as well.

Ian Brand moved to Monterey County and works in San Benito County on purpose, seeking out untapped potential in the rocky, limestone, old seabeds and shale soils.
Ian Brand moved to Monterey County and works in San Benito County. He is seeking out untapped potential in the rocky, limestone, old seabeds and shale soils.

“I moved to Montery County and work in San Benito County on purpose,” Brand said. “I love working there, seeking out untapped potential in the rocky, limestone, old seabeds and shale soils. I believe the climate and soil is perfect for the vine’s growth on the south-facing Chalone Peak to ultimately produce my style of Rosé.”

The San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Jon Bonné says 2013 may finally have brought a perfect storm of rosé and it is the hottest thing in wine now. He calls rose a “serious enough wine to be crafted with care, made from grapes dedicated to that purpose.” I am excited to say that Brand’s 2012 Le P’Tit Paysan Mourvèdre Rosé made Bonné’s list of wines that won’t disappoint. Check out
Think pink – a bumper crop of rosé this year for more information.

For those who act quickly, you still might be able to purchase a few bottles of this Rosé gem. Only 85 cases were produced and are selling for around $19.

The 2012 Le P’Tit Paysan Mourvèdre Rosé can be purchased in select small wine shops. Two local spots are The Grape Tray and Nick’s Wine Corner. Both can take orders over the phone and/or through their websites.

Be sure to check out Brand’s posts on the Le P’tit Paysan Facebook for more information.

If this wine does not seem to fit your fancy, Wine Folly’s Madeline Puckette will help you get in the know why and what kind of Rosé is right for you.

For more information on Le P’Tit Paysan visit the website or call Ian Brand at the winery: 831.212.3660 or through email: info@LPPwines.com. He is also on Twitter: @ptit_paysan.

For those who missed my latest posts, check out Calistoga: Brannan’s Grill for lunch or Tuscan tasting: Castello di Amorosa 2012 Rosato.

Be sure to return check out my Twitter @TalesoftheCork and on my Instagram (talesofthecork) daily postings. I also would covet those who would suggest a wine, restaurant, chef or hotel to visit. Feel free to contact me through social media or via email at talesofthecork@gmail.com.

The Grape Tray reopens in Fresno’s Opus I Center

GrapeTraySign1

With 21 years of wine buying, retail sales and the development of a large, loyal customer following, Stan Kato and The Grape Tray have relocated to The Opus I Shopping Center just north of Fresno’s Fig Garden and Bullard High areas, Jan. 4, 2013.

While those who shop for wines at local grocery stores may not have the interest or take the time to seek out unique wine offerings, many vino aficionados appreciate Kato and his staff’s wine scholarship along with The Grape Tray’s long-time focus on customer service.

The former Los Angeles finance manager relocated to Fresno to be closer to family and has built The Grape Tray’s retail reputation to include award-winning, popular top 100 rated wines and hard to find boutique choices for sophisticated palates. Kato’s emphasis is on old-school business practices and a no-nonsense value per bottle sold is what makes his 4,700 customers keep coming back.

After 21 years in business, owner Stan Kato moved The Grape Tray wine shop to the Opus I Shopping Center, Jan. 4, 2013.
After 21 years in business, owner Stan Kato moved The Grape Tray wine shop to the Opus I Shopping Center, Jan. 4, 2013.

“While our new store is four miles from the old location, it is actually closer to most of our current customers,” Kato said. “People will follow me out to the new location if they feel we offer something of value. I believe driving an extra two to four miles will not stop my customers from visiting us, especially those who know what we do. We have a good product at a fair price. If we continue to do that, people will come.”

Sandwiched in between Mathnasium, a math tutoring center, and Wild Rose, Foral and Gifts, The Grape Tray fits very well into the Opus I Center on the northwest corner of Palm and Bullard.

All of the businesses are small and compact–no chain stores here–offering local storefronts. Each has 1,500 square feet or less and are all independently owned. And as a result they all have their own clientele, which often produces crossover business. Customers shop for their vitamins at Ounce of Prevention, restring a tennis racket at The Stringer, take their dog to the Central Bark groomer or pick up their watch or ring settings from Mitch’s House of Jewels. There is definitely synergy in this center.

The customers who shop at The Grape Tray know that Stan provides an alternative to the standard wine set; many appreciate the selection and have not had an issue with the move to a smaller store.

While in-store,  Internet and email sales continue to be strong, Kato believes his success is largely based on a non-nonsense, straight-forward personal approach to provide fresh product, competitive pricing along with unique hard to find items.
While in-store, Internet and email sales continue to be strong, Kato believes his success is largely based on a no nonsense, straight-forward personal approach to provide fresh product, competitive pricing along with unique hard to find items.

“I have been buying wine from Stan for over 10 years,” Johanna (last name withheld) said. “While I have purchased wine from other shops, I return to The Grape Tray because Stan gives excellence advice, great customer service, his selection is wonderful and really takes care of his clients. He spends time talking with me and even makes time to find wines when I have a special request. I often recommend him to my friends and acquaintances and I tell them I would buy wine from him no matter where I live in the city.”

Kato says he left the Shaw and Fresno location because he wanted to be closer his customer base and provide easier access, moving into the space vacated by a pilates studio.

“I wanted a smaller location (1,000 square feet), did not want to offer food anymore, wine only,” Kato said. “The new spot had to be in a decent location. So my real estate broker told me about Opus I and while we looked into a couple of other places, our new spot seemed perfect.

While The Grape Tray is about a third of its former size, Stan Kato continues to grown his wine offerings and specials to over 4,700 regular customers.
While The Grape Tray is about a third of its former size, Stan Kato continues to grow his wine offerings and specials to over 4,700 regular customers.

“The owners of the complex liked the idea of having The Grape Tray,” Kato said. “I know they checked us out, talking to a lot of people in this center. They spoke to other businesses and came to the realization that we would be a good fit here. Opus I now has a wine shop, jeweler, a place to get high end vitamins, and a book store…. This bookstore, Petunia’s Place is a dynamite, rockin’ kid’s store. They are good, no great, at what they do. You have a yoga place Fig Garden Yoga Studio a Catholic bookstore (The Holy Child) and D Hou Chinese Restaurant.”

While not all Grape Tray customers who walk in the shop or make inquires via the phone or Internet want to discuss their wine purchases, Kato and his staff are committed to continuing their decades-long tradition of building relationships, finding them the right bottle for the table or event.

“An important part of my business is listening to my customers,” Kato said. “I have customers everywhere, whether they be local or out of State. Many offer tips and heads up. We get information and inquires and we look into those. And of course, I am always reading online, reading the industry (wine) publications.”

Kato related story after story of how he managed local, phone or Internet customers narrow their wine choices. His focus is educating customers on wine choices.

Kato traditionally has staffed his wine shop with Fresno State enology students, including senior Kerry Fitzgerald, right.
Kato traditionally has staffed his wine shop with Fresno State enology students, including senior Kerry Fitzgerald, right.

“A couple contacted me recently after I hadn’t seen them for over 10 years,” Kato recalled. “I had met them at one of my tastings a decade ago. Then out of the blue, the couple come into the shop. I was shocked. So we started to dialogue about an event they were going to have and they asked me about wine choices and if I could provide them with $40-$50 Cabs. So we talked about pricing, the competition and a value choice rather than just a name brand with a high score. While they preferred a high-priced brand name Cab, I sensed this was not their first choice. So I steered them to a lesser-known but high quality wine. It took a little education but after I offered to give them a tasting, they ultimately chose the lesser-known over the high-end cab.”

That story seemed to be at the heart of Stan Kato. He said he didn’t know why the couple decided to come back into his shop after a decade, but they ended up buying a large amount of value wine. Stan said he is happy to sell Camus and Veuve Clicquot or more expensive bottles but will not just hand someone an expensive label when a customer asks for it.

Kato is up front and says there’s no gimics, no smoke and mirrors at The Grape Tray. There’s no inflated retail and then we take off a big discount. It’s straight up fair.
Kato is up front and says there’s no gimics, no smoke and mirrors at The Grape Tray. There’s no inflated retail prices with the staff applying a big discount at the register. It’s straight up fair pricing for a bottle of wine.

“I want to know whether a high-priced, well-known label is the best option for a dinner party or large event,” Kato said. “In this case, we sold them lesser-known and well-respected wine label whose vintage we recommended as exceptional. The customer did not have to buy a bottle that they really didn’t need or want. It fit what they said they were looking for: elegance, not over-the-top ripe and in a price range they could afford. And in the end, the customer was tickled pink, happy. We got wonderful feedback. It was a win-win situation.”

This kind of sales requires a lot of tasting and familiarity with wines and to try and a wine merchant must anticipate what their guests and customers will like. For instance, Stan says he often ask the ages of the wine drinkers. A 22-year-old probably will like something different than a 55 or 60-year-old and the buyer should be aware of varying preferences at the same event.

“We do business the old fashion way: its fair and its honest,” Kato said. “There’s no gimics, no smoke and mirrors here. There’s no inflated retail and then we take off a big discount. It’s straight up fair. The inventory is current, and we carry products that people want to buy whether because they are chasing the points or its because the wines are hard to find or because they are popular. We are compeitive, fair and being price driven plays an important part of it.”

The Grape Tray’s new address is The Grape Tray, 6023 N Palm Ave, Fresno, CA 93704. Their phone number remains 559.226.6828 and can be reached via email: stan@grapetray.com.

For past articles and stories, please check the menu bar at the top of the page or read Rangeland Wines and Angus beef: Get to know Laird Foshay.