Despite a bustling city by day– crawling with international tourists, lively young people, and wild hockey fans— Vancouver, B.C. hushes under the moonlight. The quiet and chilly peace hovers under the towering sky scrapers, dancing with mesmerizing colors on False Creek.
The False Creek inlet separates downtown Vancouver’s land access, creating an elusive peninsula with a majestic skyline, viewable from all angles. Rainbow-colored water taxi’s tut up and down the creek during the day, carting tourists and locals around to markets, museums, and bars along both sides of the water, weaving between luxurious yachts, fishing boats, and houseboats on dock.
After spending my upbringing visiting Vancouver regularly, I began my search to find a new perspective of a city I know well. Preparing for a weekend trip to my favorite, world-class city, I opened AirBnB.com in search of a fresh take on a city I already love.
While historic hotels or homes for rent create a fun “imagine if I lived here” reality to play in, or cater to nightlife in convenient locations, I ended my search after landing on Orianna’s listing: a stay on her renovated yacht, The Orianna, anchored in False Creek with 360-degree views of some of Vancouver’s biggest attractions.
From the moment she picked us up on the Olympic Village dock, to dropping us off at the Yale Town pier to say goodbye, Orianna’s hosting style and service catered to the exact experience we wanted. An out-of-the-box free spirit, Orianna’s candor, demeanor, humor, and spark illuminated our whole visit to Vancouver. Although I’ve been hundreds of times, I felt excitement like it was my first.
Because the yacht is anchored in the middle of False Creek, we relied on meeting up to be transferred between boat-and-land. While she’s prompt in arriving on time, and extremely flexible and accommodating of various and changing schedules, we enjoyed the 10-or-so minute ride with her, and usually sat around chatting longer than necessary. The time spent zipping back-and-forth enriched our visit in energetic and fruitful conversation. Although inconvenient and non-conventional, I imagine the type of visitors who stay with her are also seeking an non-conventional and unique experience in the city: If they choose Orianna’s yacht stay, their understanding of Vancouver will be greatly enriched.
Her two-bed, two-bath Cooper Prowler Yacht is fully quipped with the comforts of home: linens, espresso, kitchen, and gathering space. Orianna herself lived on her own namesake before sharing her love of “Boat Life” with guests through private charter bookings. Leaning into hosting and hospitality, she began operating on AirBnB and purchased a Willard Trawler as well, marketing her fleet as @VancouverYachtLife on Instagram. Although many pass through, her personality and trinkets remain on display, sharing her Italian heritage, photos from sea, and mementos gathered from her lifetime.
Just as with any 36-foot vessel (or home for that matter), the stay has it quirks. Introducing us to marine-living accommodations, Captain Orianna expertly walked us through the “how to’s” and responsibilities inherent to safely living on a boat. However, given the temporary nature of the stay, nothing was complicated or too nerve wracking to master quickly: even for a visually impaired man. She takes care of most things.
Windows on all sides of The Orianna provide sweeping views of Vancouver, even from inside the living room, kitchen, or principal bedroom. The second bedroom, with only port holes, has easy roof access to one of the boat desks. With plenty of outdoor space to lounge, dine, and enjoy, we spent the evening there with a glass of wine, watching the sun set behind BC Place, and lights light up my favorite city. I wish I were better prepared with a cheese board and fresh fruit from Granville Market– to sip and snack- as I witnessed the quiet peace unfold across a majestic city.
Staying at Orianna’s is like taking a train trip or a road trip across the country: it’s not just part of the journey, but the destination.
With two queen beds, The Orianna can accommodate four people; however, the second bedroom is quite cozy. While two adults could use the room, it may be better suited for children, singles, or newlyweds.
My only regret was not preparing for a slow morning and not bringing a sweet breakfast on board at night to reheat in the morning. I’ve left sweet crepes on deck during a sunrise to my imagination… hopefully you can make up for that.
Orianna charters her yacht for private groups directly. For overnight overnight stays on her yacht or the Mystic Voyager, her trawler outfitted with a fire pit and outdoor shower, bookings are accommodated exclusively through AirBnB. Although she currently has two operating vessels on False Creek, she aims to expand her fleet to host year-round: while winter docks her boats in Canada, she hopes to anchor new boats in sunny international locations to live and work during British Columbia’s off-season.
If you’re looking for a memorable and unique addition to your Vancouver experience, book well in advance and let her know @TalesoftheCork sent you. Let me know if you’re making your way over, and I’d love to chat– Or you could always tag me in a picture of you on the deck, enjoying breakfast or a glass of wine.
Fresno’s newest rooftop bar and restaurant, is changing the way Fresno and Clovis think about hanging out. And its impact is immediate. With full-service dining and original craft cocktails on the menu, reservations are already highly suggested.
Quail State Fresno is a place where locals gather and assemble with friends or a place to make new ones. Currently open for street-level patio seating of the Pacific Southwest Building in downtown Fresno, Fresno’s newest vibe on the corner Mariposa and Fulton avenues is a controlled rockin’ street party.
While educating its patrons has importance, co-owner Josh Islas says Quail State’s vibe has everything to do with creating a great place to hang out with good community people, a staff who has impeccable attention to detail.
Islas says Quail State is a neighborhood hospitality junction and does not focus just on being a wine or cocktail bar.
“I want people to come here to feel cared for, taken care of and loved,” Islas said during an interview with me in the rooftop bar, March 31. “Hospitality, attention to detail, stellar drinks and incredible food are what set us a part.”
With Executive Chef Matthew Lee in the kitchen, Josh crafts cocktails from the Quail State’s rooftop bar, Fresno’s first.
“I believe we can help create the night life we all want downtown. I think there is no such thing as being ready for new things. People from New York, L.A., or San Francisco may ask, ‘Are you sure Fresno is ready for this?’ Of course we are.” — Josh Islas, Quail State co-owner
Since 2016, Islas and co-owner and wife, Hayley Islas-Wolf, have been envisioning a Downtown Fresno rooftop location and finally settled on the corner of Fulton and Mariposa, beginning renovations in June 2020.
“I chose a building that is the most iconic to start something successful in,” Josh said. “And while COVID-19 slightly delayed where I thought I’d be today, I think it has been a blessing in disguise.”
Born and raised in Fresno for 20 years, Josh moved to Southern California for 10 years where he worked in cafes and a variety of award-winning restaurants and bars. Through watching and actively working, he saw what worked, and what didn’t work, in the hospitality industry.
Why downtown Fresno?
“I believe that downtown Fresno is the only top 50 cities [sic] in the nation with no thriving downtown, and that is an abomination to me,” Islas said. “People have said for years and years and years, ‘We need to invest in downtown’. I believe that change comes from the inside and I am tired of people from all over Fresno bag on their own city.”
Islas and his wife both said they take pride in Fresno, and want to be a part of something that Lee and others are proud of.
Chef Lee, former executive sous chef at Botega Italian Restaurant in Napa and Exectutive Chef at Taste Craft Eatery in Paso Robles, designed the menu. Quail State is currently without a full kitchen for its dinner service. However, seeing a creative solution, Lee sought the kitchen of Cocina de Mama, which conveniently only serves for breakfast and lunch, across the street and creates his original dinner menu from there. All of the produce, meats and dairy are prepared from local Central Valley partners.
The Quail State team is already in go-mode despite the pandemic.
“Customers keep restaurants and bars popular by coming back,” Islas said, “by writing stellar reviews of staff, atmosphere, chefs, food and drink. I already know our loyal customers continue to return because the staff is welcoming, caring.”
His’s eyes and voice spoke with passion as Islas said he methodically hired a staff that gives back to their customers and community.
“My staff demonstrates they care about providing a legitimate, welcoming atmosphere,” Islas continued. “It’s all about customer service. Without it, you’re not going to last in this industry.”
Future forward —
As he looks ahead for the next year, assuming COVID-19 continues to wane, Islas believes Quail State will continue to grow. Only open currently for craft cocktails and select natural wines, he said he’s hopeful their proposed full wine bar will be completed by July 2021. However, both co-owners have much bigger plans.
“By next year, I hope to open a second full restaurant and bar in a nearby location,” Islas said. “And as that builds out, I plan on opening a couple more, all in the downtown area. All will be a wine, bar, and restaurant concept.”
Currently, downtown Fresno has only two bar concepts: The Modernist and Quail State. Islas says that is not enough to change the downtown district. According to Islas, he believes Fresno has been a beer city for at least 10 years and now is the time to add cocktail locations to the city.
“I believe we can help create the night life we want downtown,” Islas continued. “I think there is no such thing as being ready for new things. People from New York, L.A. or San Francisco may ask ‘Are you sure Fresno is ready for this?’ Of course we are. Give Fresno more credit.”
Thanks to its rich history, The San Joaquin Valley is linguistically diverse with and estimated 40 languages spoken, and is home to cultures representing the globe – each brings with them their own vibrant flavors and unique history. Quail State is striving to celebrate the things that make local dishes different by using fresh, locally-sourced, seasonal ingredients to create cocktails and food inspired by the people who call Fresno home.
After tasting through a few of meticulously crafted drinks and expertly prepared dishes, I want to be one who returns and root for the locals who are reimagining downtown Fresno.
“If you are looking to bring someone to downtown Fresno, the only thing holding you back is you,” Islas said. “Know yourself, know who you are talking to, know your market, your clientele and execute your vision faithfully. This is what we are doing at Quail State.”
For those who want to delve deeper, the Quail State website is chocked full of agave, gin, rum and whiskey reviews as well offering ongoing education for bartenders and enthusiasts alike. Check out the popular “Whiskeys of The World” class, as well as mezcal, gin, and rum tasting events.
Fill out a form to learn more about participating in their specialty classes ranging from bartending basics, advanced bartending techniques, and mixology theory.
Those ready to check out Islas’ craft cocktails can do so via QuailStateFresno.com. Make reservations for a table Wednesday through Sunday to enjoy their selection of craft cocktails, natural wine, California beers, and farm-to-table food. A take out menu is also available.
Be sure to return to TalesoftheCork at a later date for a food, cocktail, and wine review.
In the following quick video, Josh Islas creates a craft cocktail called Left Hand.
Fresh-squeezed juice is the key to a stunning margarita. Toss the fake mix, spend time juicing, and rock the party with this TalesoftheCork mango margarita recipe.
Blender, cocktail shaker, juicer
· 1 Mango · 1 Orange · 1 Grapefruit · 4-6 limes · Blue agave · Tequila (I use Leyendal del Milagro) · Orange liqueur (I prefer Grand Marnier or Cointreau) · Ice
Optional: · Thai chili or jalapeño slices) · Rim glass with lime & salt (I don’t) · Mint or Thai basil for garnish
For two (with top offs) citrus and TalesoftheCork mango margaritas:
Juice a large orange, grapefruit and 4-6 limes.
Important — · Squeeze citrus juice into separate cups.
Peel a soft, ripe mango, roughly chop, and purée. Set aside.
Of course shake, don’t stir.
Please taste before serving to make any adjustments to your liking. I find that limes are inconsistent with their potency, and are sometimes weak or strong in flavor. Double or triple the portions for more mango margarita servings.
Pour. Add Thai chili or jalapeño, garnish.
Sip, share, sip, enjoy.
Take a photo of your TalesoftheCork mango margarita and tag/hashtag @talesofthecork, #TalesoftheCork on Instagram, twitter and/or Facebook. I would love to see your creation.
Escape to Cambria by the Sea with three-day itinerary
Vacations affect your happiness and planning one can produce enough positive vibes to justify a three-day getaway. And, according to a 2010 New York Times article, the effects of vacation anticipation can boost happiness for up to eight weeks.
While I have led tours to New York City, Europe, and the central coast many times, I still get positive endorphins as I did drafting those trips more than 20 years ago. The key? Planning and dreaming about vacations before departure.
With today’s busyness and hectic pace, many long for sounds of seagulls, rhythm of the waves, sweet smells of pine forests, beach or bluff walks, and air as clean as mother nature intended.
So when a three-day window arose for Geena and I to enjoy Cambria, California, a pre-planned agenda helped ensure a relaxed, no hassle weekend. And, to top it off, planning and anticipating the vacation for a few weeks beforehand may be even more important to a feeling of relaxation than just the days away from home.
Tip No. 1: Get to Paso early for a winery pit stop
While our Cambria getaway did not start until 9 a.m. Friday, we took care of a few last minute details, grabbing a coffee and pastry at a local java shop on the drive out of town. If you love the aroma of tea, coffee or a warm beverage on a cold morning, this adds to the anticipation and promise of a great start. In fact, the two plus-hour drive from Fresno to Paso Robles was made all the better with some hot black gold and a light, flaky and buttery delicacy.
Paso Robles wine tasting teaser:
We left early enough to arrive in Paso Robles and had time to stop in at one of the area’s wineries: Giornata Wines just off the CA 101 and Highway 46 interchange. They are a part of the new Tin City development. We called ahead and made sure winemaker Brian and/or wife, Stephanie, Terrizzi had the winery open. We were in luck and spent an hour tasting and purchasing a bottle of our favorite Sangiovese. We love their award-wining California-style Italian juice.
However, while there are hundreds of winery choices in the Paso area, and acknowledging Tin City is a destination itself, that was not our purpose for this trip.
Cambria: Day 1
One of the best feelings about arriving in Cambria is the sight of its wooded hills and tall Monterey pines. Motorists can enter the town via the first stoplight at Ardath Drive/Main Street as they travel the California Highway 1 (Cabrillo Highway) heading north.Turn right on Main Street to travel the whole town of Cambria, taking in the charm of its 19th century cottages, motels, turn of the century shops and quaint character in Cambria East.
Cambria history interlude
The villages of Cambria took their shape in the 1860s, and as lumber, ranching and mining interests increased in the region, the village became more prosperous, according to the Cambria Historical Society. And late in the sixties, it adopted the more dignified name of Cambria.
But it was not until Swiss dairymen set the pace for a major industry during 1880s that prosperity came to the region. By the turn of the century, Cambria was shipping over a ton of butter per day to San Francisco via the wharf at San Simeon. Cheese production is said to have averaged over a half-ton daily.
However, while we noticed spots on the walking tour map we wanted to visit, our first stop on this trip was the weekly Friday Cambria farmer’s market, just west of Main and Cambria, across the street from the Cambria Public Library at 1000 Main. This is about the center of town and a great way to meet the locals, area artisans and farmers. We spent over an hour wandering, chatting and generally slowing our pace. Even though we were there in mid January, a surprisingly wide variety of fruits, vegetables, flowers, gourmet cheese, crackers and wine, local shellfish, coffee and fresh squeezed juices were available.
Cambria businesses, shops and restaurants have quaint and charming facades, drawing the visitor to indoor and outdoor spaces.
Arrive in Cambria on Fridays by 2:30 p.m. for their farmer’s market. Buy local fresh produce, dairy, seafood, flowers, nuts, wine and more.
The Cambria farmer’s market is on Main across the street from the public library.
Cambria West Village has vibrant artist community including designers, artists, craftspeople and you will find special treasures you will not see anywhere else. There are no chain stores or restaurants. They along with the Farmer’s Market, as well as day spas and wellness centers are all locally owned and operated. You will be charmed by the eclectic array of shops from antiques to apparel plus unique gifts and specialty shops.
The key to a successful Cambria trip is to keep the itinerary simple. Walk the town, browse the shops with a coffee, tea or bag of confectionary in hand. We slowly made our way through the art galleries, local artisan, specialty, antique and craft shops.
We spent over an hour listening to Reyna talk about the passion of local winemaker Stephen Dooley of Stephen Ross Cellars who has used time spent in the Napa Valley, the Australian outback, and the South African Cape to helped shape Cutruzzola’s wines. Owners Francis Cutruzzola and his partner Lisa Miller, longtime wine connoisseurs, moved from Sonoma County to the Paso Robles wine region, falling in love with the landscape, the people, and most importantly, the wine.
They have two acres of Riesling and five acres of Pinot Noir in small blocks, utilizing multiple clones to develop depth and complexity in the wines. These are fabulous sipping and food wines. I am very impressed with Cutruzzola Vineyards and highly recommend these award-wining wines that score 90+ and above.
Cutruzzola estate Riven Rock Vineyard vineyard is located in a coastal valley just outside the town center, lies 6.5 miles from the Pacific Ocean and just east of the town of Cambria. Seven acres of vines grace south-facing slopes in a cool climate frequented by ocean breezes and morning fog. Lean, rocky, marine-origin soils and steep hillsides produce very small yields of extremely concentrated fruit, while the maritime influence keeps the acids fresh and vibrant.
Tip No. 2: Slow your pace, set awhile with a coffee, tea or juice and people watch
We decided to meet up at Linn’s Restaurant in East Village for a coffee and pastry. And while we sat at a little table near the baked goods counter, it was so good to just sit and people watch. No agenda, no bustle. Just people watching, sipping and relaxing.
With art hanging close by at The Vault and other galleries, soft music playing, and two more days ahead of us, we spoke of a walk along Moonstone Beach, a leisurely hike on Fisalini Ranch, and wine tasting. It’s good to anticipate, even when its as close as tomorrow.
With daydreaming done and a visit to a couple of antique dealers discovering toys, dishes and furniture from our youths, we headed to Moonstone Beach and a walk along its famed boardwalk.
Tip No. 3: Walk Moonstone Beach Boardwalk
The Moonstone Beach Boardwalk is where a Cambria visit should begin and end. During its length, visitors will be guided along its 2.85-mile wooden boardwalk on an easy slope and with many spots to sit on benches, sink your feet into the sand or water or watch from the bluffs the surf, sea and ocean life. With viewing platforms and only 40 feet of elevation change, this is a must for anyone.
Geena and I walked hand in hand, listening to the seals, egrets and rhythm of the waves. We explored a few of the tide pools as well, finding sea anemones, spiny purple sea urchins, snails and crabs.
And with plenty of restaurants, motels and picnic areas, we ended up getting a drink at a couple of spots along the Moonstone Drive over the weekend. Try the Sea Chest Restaurant for great oysters and a glass of Champagne or Sauvignon Blanc. We also visited Moonstone Beach Bar & Grill for a bowl of clam chowder and a citrusy zest of a Riesling. The lemon and lime cuts the silky, rich broth and starch in the potatoes. Cheers to good eating and relaxing with spectacular ocean views.
To get to the trailhead: From San Luis Obispo, drive 34.2 miles north up Highway One to Cambria. Continue through three lights and turn left at the traffic light onto Windsor Boulevard. Drive a hundred feet and make an immediate right onto Moonstone Beach Drive. Go 0.1 miles and turn left into the trailhead free parking area just past El Colibri Hotel. If you are coming from the north, Windsor Boulevard is 7.2 miles south of Hearst Castle Road.
Checking in to Cambria’s Fireside Inn on Moonstone Beach Drive
With dinner still two hours hence, we checked in to our hotel: The Fireside Inn right on Moonstone Beach Drive, overlooking the ocean and an entrance to the boardwalk.
With the USA recently posting Moonstone Beach as one of California’s Top 10 best, we just had to stay within walking distance. Nestled just off Highway 1, the Fireside Inn is perfect spot to get away from it all. Just footsteps away from the beach, our Superior King Oceanfront room had a fireplace, spa tub, and patio overlooking the ocean.
We loved lounging in the lush bathrobes, sipping in-room gourmet coffee. No problem getting a great night’s sleep on a Sleeper Mattress and luxurious bedding. In fact, a late night dig in the hot spa poolside was also a bonus!
Dinner No. 1: Madelines on Main Street
Highly recommended, we loved our evening at Madeline’s Restaurant in Cambria. Not only did our hotel recommend it but others in town as well. A wine shop and wine club by day (a good one at that), and fine dining each night, we were greeted at the Madeline’s door by owner and Chef David and seated. Loved the linen tables, finely appointed with flowers.
I took a few moments to browse the wine tasting shop as would return on my own. Many of the wines and dinner menu items are based upon locally sourced and seasonably available products. Chef Dave is proud to say “the best organic food and local wine is what’s grown closest to you – and it tastes better!” He’s been open for 13 years and by the way the restaurant was bustling and full, I’d say he will be on Main Street for some time to come.
Light music played in the back ground as we enjoyed our five course Chef’s Tasting Menu ($110 per couple). We added the wine flight ($40 per couple) and let our host guide us through local foods and wine tasting. We enjoyed our evening and recommend Madeline’s Restaurant and appreciate owner David Stoothoff’s hospitality.
First course: Caucus Red Abalone (Panko crusted, topped with lemon butter capers over arugula salad. This was paired with a 2015 Andrew Adam Pinot Gris from Edna Valley. Perfect. Second course: Wild forged Chanterelle mushroom soup (unspeakable deliciousness) with a Baker and Brain 2015 Grüner Veltliner from Edna Valley.
Third course: Pan-seared link cod topped with compound butter, blood orange and saffron sauce with creamy risotto and wilted greens. The 2014 Alban Central Coast Viognier from Paso Robles was outstanding.
Fourth course: Venison tenderloin with red wine jus and shallots with mashed butternut squash and seasonal vegetables. Chef David paired this with a 2014 Line Shack Cabernet from Paso Robles. The tenderloin was fantastic but when we didn’t like the pairing, he poured a glass of the 2014 Kamal Cabernet Sauvignon El Pomar District. Oh my, my food pairing became an immediate winner. Fifth course: We had a choice of homemade desserts and our choice of aperitif.
We had a most fabulous dinner! The dishes were all excellent and plated with attention to aesthetics, plus each side dish was delicious in its own right. All around attention to detail and the service was excellent. Definitely would return and try Chef Dave’s other seasonal menu pairings. Reservations are recommended.
Cambria: Day two
With a hot cup of coffee to go from the Fireside Inn breakfast room, I walked right over to Moonstone Beach boardwalk to catch the last rays of sunrise and watch day two begin. There is nothing quite like morning java with dawn and the beach to start one’s day. And while this mesmerizing scene could keep me there for hours, we were excited for a leisurely hike.
Tip No. 4: Hike the Fiscalini Ranch forest or bluff trails
A weekend highlight for us has to be our Fiscalini Ranch Preserve docent-led walk. While there are many to choose from, we met our guide Brian for a Fiscalini Ranch hike on the corner of Tipton and Warren in the Lodge Hill area of Cambria.
We spent over 2 1/2 hours exploring the mostly level trails through through the Monterey pine and coastal oak forest. He was so knowledgeable about the geological, historical background of the area and most helpful with the flora and fauna of the preserve.
The hours flew by as we strolled along paths with fresh wood chips. A few spots of standing water and mud but very walkable. At first Brian shared about the plant and animal life in the forest but weaved in appropriate talks on poisonous plants, tree insect and disease issues as well as information on native peoples and their history. We loved the walk from forest, to grasslands to amazing ocean views from the bluffs!
As it was January, much of his talk centered on mushrooms and other forest flora. His information was encyclopedia-eek and very personable and relational.
And while I absolutely loved finding and talking about nearly 20 variety of mushrooms on our walk, Brian brought us to where at least 10,000 Monarch butterflies congregated during their annual migration. At times hundreds were clumped together and suddenly they took off to fill the sky with their orange and yellow hues. This was a spectacular moment!
Be sure to read and make plans to sign up for one of five docent-led Fiscalini Ranch walks. These include a bluff, forest loop, grasslands and loop, special interests walks and school-related walks. Download a Fiscalini Ranch map for an idea of where you will travel. January through April are great months to return to the ranch as every couple of weeks the flora and fauna change dramatically. For instance, February – April are whale watching months.
After a yummy taco lunch from Boni’s Tacos, who by the way sets up on the corner of Main and Burton, we spent some time in Fermentations Wine Shop and The Vault Gallery. These are great examples of locals celebrating what they do best and we laud their efforts.
There are 10 wineries from Morro Bay to San Simeon along the Pacific Coast Wine Trail. Cambria alone has five wineries. Can you name all five? Four of them have Main Street addresses and the fifth, Stolo Family Vineyards is on Santa Rosa Creek Rd.
Tip No. 5: Wine tasting in Cambria
Besides Cutruzzola Vineyards I mentioned earlier, we also visited drove out to Stolo Family Vineyards. We met up with Tina, the tasting room manager, and had a fabulous time chatting with her about the Stolo story and wines on a most gorgeous day.
Tina shared how owners Don and Charlene Stolo’s desire to escape southern California to Cambria to reset and relax. After 20 years of visiting the area, Don and Charlene decided that this would be the place to retire. They found it on the rural road of Santa Rosa Creek and purchased the 53 acres of beautiful coastal land with an 1880s farmhouse and a huge redwood dairy barn in 2002.
The nine-acre Hillside vineyard was planted in 1998 under the guidance of renowned Rhone-style vineyard owner and wine maker, John Alban. Its varietals, clones and rootstock are an ideal match for the climate and soils on the property. This piece and their other vineyards are in a perfect spot to grown Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and Northern Rhone Syrah. The Stolo wines are fabulous. I picked up two bottles and look forward to pairing them with future TalesoftheCork dinners.
We tasted through many of these and need to return to better appreciate this amazing winery. The property is gorgeous with plenty of room for picnics, parties and group wine tastings. Their first vintage was in 2004 and Stolo Vineyards has scored 90+ for many of their wines. Take the time to drive out to Stolo Family Vineyards and be sure to allow time to wander the property besides time for wine tasting.
With the afternoon winding down, Geena and I headed back into Cambria. We weren’t ready for dinner so a stroll in East Cambria sounded wonderful. It’s easy to stop and chat with shopkeepers and those doing much the same as us. We ended up browsing a couple of antique shops, sat at an outdoor table, chatting over a half sandwich, coffee and a smoothie.
Plus we also fit in a shorter walk along Moonstone Beach boardwalk to beef up our appetites for dinner. And while there were plenty of walkers and joggers, we found lots of spots to lose ourselves in the cool breeze, birdwatch and listen to the seals.
Dinner No. 2: Black Cat Bistro
We heard that chef and owner Mauricio Lopez and chef Joel Magana have created quite a name for Black Cat Bistro since 2002, so dinner day two was anticipated. The eclectic combination of decor and art in the small 45-seat three room bistro was originally a house built in the 1930s.
The Black Cat Bistro in Cambria provides intimate dining appeal with excellent service. Wood floors, lots of colorful fabrics, down pillows adorn the rooms.
Chef has taken great care in not only selecting local farm produce but in pairing the foods with local wines.The restaurant has a Wine Spectator award of excellence the last nine years.
We ordered a three-course meal off the Black Cat Bistro menu, beginning with New England style clam chowder. The Black Cat Bistro’s clam chowder has a reputation for this dish and previously won Best of Show and Chowder/Bisque Award winner at the annual Soupabration in Morro Bay in 2015. This was a no-brainer and definitely a beauty and bowl-licking good bowl!
The Giacomino Reserve is a Wine Enthusiast Editors 94-point wine. The longer barrel aging in new oak is perfect. Aromas and flavors of blackberry and black cherry compliment the toasty oak, savory herb and earthy notes in a lush mouthfeel and finish. This is a fabulous wine that paired very well with all part of my meal.
The beet gnocchi and shrimp dish with shiitake, cremini, saffron martini cream, radicchio, asiago and sage was also tasty. Love the sauce and earthy flavors. The gnocchi was also recommended and did not disappoint.
Finally, the server recommended the Maple Leaf duck breast with mushroom red wine barley risotto, baby boo chop, cherry duck jus and thyme. I’m a weakling for duck so I jumped at it. My mouth still waters thinking about this pairing. Well done chef.
Geena ordered the sea scallops topped with crab, in a corn pudding, tomatillo cream, mushrooms, cilantro and butter. This is perfect for those seeking a top shelf seafood meal. She paired the seafood with a Tablas Creek 2015 Patelin de Tablas Blanc (white Rhone blend). Without a doubt, a delicious pairing. Not counting the Cutruzzola Pinot, the bill was just over $88, plus tip. Again, well done.
The best way to ease into a last day of vacation is to already know where your coffee or tea is coming from, plan a spot to enjoy it and let most of the morning pass without a destination. We enjoyed the ocean view from our Fireside Inn patio. With choices like Sandy’s Deli and Bakery and Cambria Coffee Roasting Company in West village just a couple of minutes away, I didn’t mind driving Moonstone Beach Drive for fresh goodies.
Tip No. 6: Visit elephant seals
A mid January through March visit to Cambria also should include a visit to the elephant seal vista point at San Simeon. This is a great way to explore north of Cambria with not a lot of extra driving, especially if a visitor would like to take one of many Hearst Castle’s tours the same day.
The Elephant seal population along the beach swells to over 17,000 individuals as the come ashore. Females give birth during January and February. These mammals spend eight to ten months in the open ocean each year and migrate thousands of miles twice a year to birth, breed, molt and rest on San Simeon area beaches. Tours to the area are organized by the Friends of the Elephant Seal. For a 30-90 minute docent-led tour and information about the elephant seal rookery, call ahead for reservation and visit them as they assemble at their San Simeon address.
The view of the elephant seal rookery from the viewing area north of San Simeon.
There is plenty of free parking at the elephant seal viewing area. Kiosks are stuffed with pamphlets and signage to help visitors understand what they are seeing. Friends of the Elephant Seal provide invaluable information both on site and online. Elephant seal males can weigh in at over 5,000 pounds and are as large as small pickup trucks. With babies born at 70 pounds and nearly four feet long, the whole spectacle is an amazing experience. We’ve been numerous times and are in awe each visit.
In the past we also walked the pier at San Simeon Bay. There are also picnic areas and a great stretch of sandy beach. Be sure to stop in at Sebastian’s Store as well for your deli sandwiches and you might even taste Heart Ranch Winery offerings there.
Tip No. 7: Eat a Red Moose Cookie
Finally, we ate a late picnic lunch we purchased at Sebastian’s on a pullout along Highway 1, overlooking the ocean. Priceless. . . . and arrived back in Cambria by 3 p.m.
However, the coastal retreat weekend would not be complete without a stop at our favorite Cambria shop: Red Moose Cookie Co.
It’s as local as it gets and only two people make, market and sell the amazing Red Moose Cookies from an industrial park of all places. Using only love, butter and the finest ingredients, owners Roger Wall and Caren Hammond use their passion for cooking and baking to create memorable cookies for immediate consumption and for the ride home and beyond.
So with cookies in hand, a bag for the road and freezer once we got home, Geena and I decided on one last stop before driving the 2 1/2 hours back to Fresno.
Tip No. 8: Scout lodging options for next trip
With another visit to Cambria already a given, a little pre ‘next trip’ scouting of one of Cambria’s most talked about lodging was the last item on the ‘check it out list’: Cambria Pines Lodge.
While nestled in the Monterey pine forest area of Cambria, Cambria Pines Lodge encompasses 25 acres or world-class gardens, therapeutic day spa, sparkling outdoor heated pool, soothing hot tub, lovely restaurant. We found the grounds and rooms to offer a peaceful, relaxing setting.
While Moonstone Beach is two miles down Highway 1 and Cambria’s Main Street is at the bottom of the hill, I’d love to stay at the lodge. The rooms are well appointed and the whole place exudes my earlier focus: I want to escape to Cambria and the Pines Lodge is a place to dream that escape.
After touring Cambria Pines Lodge, I could see why many desire its amenities and location despite not being on the famed Moonstone Beach Drive.
Their website promotes itself as a property which provides space for reflection, serenity, and rejuvenation. I walked the gardens and even in winter they provide an inviting respite for travelers in search of peace and inspiration.
Just walking the grounds and hanging out in the common areas of the lodge provided ample reasons why another Cambria trip will be a successful retreat. There is yet so more to be explored in this quiet, serene, clean and peaceful environment.
Yet even with this being said, the Fireside Inn is a fabulous place to stay on Moonstone Beach. But whether you choose this ocean side spot, there are many other Cambria lodging options and hotel packages available on VisitCambriaca.org or on Facebook. Plus Cambria’s Trip Advisor page is also a great way to book hotels.
Traveling to Cambria
Cambria is 240 miles south of San Francisco and 240 miles north of Los Angeles. For information, contact the Cambria Chamber of Commerce (767 Main St.; 805/927-3624). Another great resource when planning a vacation to the central coast is VisitCambriaca.com.
Be sure to read TalesoftheCork’s previous blog post, “Giornata Wines: Story behind top California Italian brand.” And if winemakers, wineries or restaurants are interested in a TalesoftheCork wine and/or food review on the blog, Instagram, Twitter and/or Facebook, please send us a request via email: firstname.lastname@example.org or use DM on social media. TalesoftheCork also offers social media seminars for businesses.
Stephanie “Stephy” Terrizzi, twin daughters epitomize brand’s drive to success
When the San Francisco Chronicle published 2016 Winemakers to Watch, December 1, 2016, author Esther Mobley’s introduction pointed to characteristics that not only describes Brian and Stephy Terrizzi’s passion for Giornata Wines, but I believe describes their kids’ focus as well. I think all four have a “fearless desire to set new paradigms, a bootstrapping ambition and an attention to their craft.”
While Mobley no doubt intends the readership to discover the three other winemakers as well, and no disrespect to them at all, I couldn’t help but think that her quote describes the whole Terrizzi family. All four, including 11-year-old twin daughters, Aida and Kate, exude individual passions, are entrepreneurial-focused and driven, sharing an intense collaboration and close personal family connections.
And during my mid January visit with Stephy and Brian on their Paso Robles area property, not only did I further understand Stephy’s role as viticulturist and Brian as winemaker, but I saw their children’s love for the land, its relationship with the vineyards and winery. I ultimately came to appreciate all four individuals’ vision of enterprise.
Instead, Brian, Stephy, Aida and Kate all impressed me as they each wove stories of time spent in the vineyard, winery, soccer and tennis practice, tap dance, rock climbing and hanging out with other local winemaker families. They all spoke about new business ventures, including the next new vintage, a pasta factory in the new Tin City development plus selling soap and bath bombs.
The Terrizzis own 11 acres just south west of Paso Robles with four acres of vineyards atop a knoll. With plenty of room yet to grow Giornata Wines on the property, Stephy is in charge of their vineyards as well as the famed Luna Matta Vineyard. Brian is the winemaker, markets the wines and is forever Giornata’s dreamer.
While Brian left to pick up the kids from soccer and ballet, I walked the Giornata vineyards with Stephy as she shared her past struggles and excitement for their future plans.
On the south west to southern portion of the property, she described how disappointing it was to watch a 2013 fall Nebbiolo planting die in a December freeze, decimating the vineyard. But their loss today looks healthy and happy as the new acre and a half of Nebbiolo clones planted in 2014 have are doing well.
“Our trips and time working in Italy have shaped us,” Stephy said. “We planted Nebbiolo because of our time in Piedmont. Imagine driving the tops of the hills and those Nebbiolo vineyards in Piedmont. Most all are on the south-facing slopes. We love how well those grapes do there and believe they are an excellent fit for our property. Everything here is planted on 1103 root stock. We replanted vineyard in 2014, using FPS Clones 6 and 8 and the VCR Clone 430.
“We planted the different clones so I could tell and know the difference between all three of them,” Stephy continued. “They are all planted next to each other but we will blend them all together.”
The Giornata brand and Italian adventure really began when Brian moved to Italy to work under famed winemaker Paolo DeMarchi at Isole e Olena in Tuscany in 2003. There Brian spent three months during harvest, learning under the man who ‘changed his life.’
Giornata Wines became a full-time gig by 2007 and have focused on Italian varietals ever since.
While I spoke with Stephy about most of their premium Italian varietals offerings, on this day we spoke at length about the best varietals to plant on the Giornata property and bottling estate Nebbiolo in the next couple of years.
“The new plants have taken root and as the they go deep and look for water,” Stephy said, “they will do really well on the high Ph soils of our property. Eventually, especially on a wet year like this, we hope to dry farm the Nebbiolo.
“We bought these clones at Novavine Nursery in Santa Rosa as they are the most tried and true versions in the U.S.,”Stephy said. “I have them planted at Luna Matta as well. They’ve been around a while and have some traction behind them.”
Vineyards surround their home atop their hilltop perch. And as Stephy and I traversed the property with her mud-caked boots, a two-story rock climbing boulder/structure captured my attention as it dominated the hill.
“Kate loves rock climbing and one of our neighbors makes those structures,” Stephy said smiling and shaking her head. “While they both climb on it, its Kate’s thing.”
I nodded as it towered over us and initially obscured the chicken coup at the top of the hill.
“It’s been a tough week,” Stephy said as we walked up to the coup, “because their pet rooster ‘Red’ just died. The girls took it harder than the hens.”
While I probably said something dumb like ‘any lost egg production?’, I didn’t yet know how passionately they or their twins cared about their pets or philosophy in raising them.
Red was not just a rooster. He was a rescue and probably was nearing 10 years old. The family rescued him from an underground cock fighting organization and he was one of their prized possessions.
As we arrived at the edge of the hill on the opposite side, looking due north, we peered down on the oldest vines on the property: five rows Trebbiano, a full three years old, arguably the happiest vines on the property. Stephy went on to say they want to blend some Trebbiano in their Sangiovese with co-pigmentation. This is very typical to do in Chianti until about two years ago when the law was changed.
However, our conversation quickly morphed.
“This is a really fun place to work,” Stephy said. “We have two Italian Greyhounds who come out with me as I work in this area. They run around and catch squirrels, chase after gophers and mice.”
Stephy is the viticulturist for Giornata Wines but is also the vineyard manager for Luna Matta. She grew up in the midwest in Freeport, Illinois, and, while not on a farm, on the urban edge of a farming community. Growing up she was in 4-H, could milk cows and rope cattle and staunchly insists she still can.
High praise for a mom who still helps the girls make Valentine’s cards during the Monday before pink day, even though she would rather be pruning Giornata’s four acres of vineyards or on her prized Luna Matta site. But today she shared her dream and also spoke of future plans for her property.
“We would love to put in hazelnut and oak trees and start a truffle project at the bottom of this grade,” Stephy said, “but we really do not have enough water. We pump about two gallons a minute already but we have some big tanks to hold water but its not enough to do truffles.
“But at the bottom of the hill, we would like to do some bee boxes and a pig breeding project,” Stephy continued. “We already have a tack house at the bottom of the hill that used to house a horse before we bought the acreage. In fact, my daughter, Aida, wants to get involved and is saving up her money to buy a Llama. And I see 4-H in her future. Kate on the other hand will probably be a lifelong Girl Scout.”
The girls again. Later I found out, they too are entrepreneurs. With Aida taking on the ‘CEO’ role and Kate as the ‘CFO’ the twins own, operate, create, sell and deliver soap and bath bombs to their classmates, parents and occasionally to those who visit the winery. They even have participated in beauty and wellness shows in Atascadero. They take orders at school, make the products over the weekend and deliver the next week.
Their drive to create and sustain a brand takes passion, vision and a willingness to do more and do it longer than anyone else. This describes the Terrizzi family from the kids on up.
“I may also try Nerello Mascalese,” Stephy said. “I believe we can get this highly regarded Sicilian grape varietal next year on root stock. This is very exciting and I really would like to grow that. While this still might be two years away for us, we will see what happens but I definitely want some here.
“Down the road we would like to take the Trebbiano, the Friulano, and Ribolla Gialla, and do a skin contact white estate blend,” Stephy continued. “We should be able to get six tons of fruit from this property on a normal year. We can get a ton and a half of Sangiovese and two and a half to three tons of Nebbiolo.”
Giornata Wines is also known for their Sangiovese that is currently sourced from Luna Matta Vineyard and another Sangiovese crop that is farmed by a project run by James Ontiveros (formally of Bien Nacido) and Matt Turrentine. But Stephy is careful to point out that she is very picky as to how others manage their vineyards and ultimately their Sangiovese juice.
“What is really important to me is the farming aspect,” Stephy said. “We clearly live on our property and so it is important to treat the land in a respectful manner because we live here. We drink the water that we are ‘standing on top of’ right now so I don’t use herbicides at all.
“We don’t use a whole lot of anything,” Stephy continued. “Now as the grapes begin to develop, we will use fungicides but I strongly believe creating an ecosystem that is balanced. As you can see we have a cover crop of grasses. But we want to make sure we have lacewings around to keep the aphids and leafhoppers (in check) because when you do something, something else happens on the other side of the equation.”
The Giornata wines are at the highest quality tier of Italian-style wines in California.
When it comes to sustainability, Stephy also is not only focused on what is best for her vineyards but for the land she loves, lives on. Sustainability is essential to continued success and a healthy balance.
“There is only so much land and as people move to California, and I am included in that. I am not a native Californian, it is important to keep this land healthy and not saturate it with synthetic fertilizers and chemicals. We’ve read in the last five-six years about the bee population plummeting. We’ve got almond and walnut trees on this property and without the bees … well and I’ve read that we’ve only got two years worth of food … and without the bees, we will all begin to starve. That is kind of a scary thought.
“We plan to get some bees out here pretty soon in February, get those up and running. It is really important to keep this balance and not become a monoculture and not let one thing take over another. It’s important to keep the balance on the property itself from vine to vine and have everything in harmony.”
This is similar to the Terrizzi winemaking philosophy well. Like many who use biodynamic and sustainable practices, winemakers Brian and Stephy Terrizzi’s wines are natural and express a sense of place whether they are from their own properties or from area vineyards. Look for Giornata winery in the Tin City, which is quickly becoming the “epicenter of the burgeoning craft beverage community of Paso Robles,” according to developer Mike English.
Be sure to return to TalesoftheCork for Part II of the Giornata Wine story at the end of February. TalesoftheCork will further outline Brian and Stephy’s journey as they strive to create the finest Italian varietals in California. The upcoming post will detail more of Brian’s winemaker journey, latest releases and the couple’s new venture to open the summer of 2017.
Giornata Wines can be ordered via their website or and via the Tin City winery. They are located at 470 Marquita Ave., Paso Robles, CA, 93446. For more information, call their store: (805) 434.3075 or via email: email@example.com. Be sure to call, email or make online reservations in order to visit the winery. The are only open for tastings by appointment.
Be sure to read TalesoftheCork’s previous blog post, “Trelio Restaurant reopens in Clovis.” And if winemakers, wineries or restaurants are interested in a TalesoftheCork wine and/or food review on the blog, Instagram, Twitter and/or Facebook, please send us a request via email: firstname.lastname@example.org or use DM on social media. TalesoftheCork also offers social media seminars for businesses.