Tag: Greg D Stobbe

Ulrich Dujardin: Outsider impacts Burgundy winemaking tradition, Part II

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This blog continues to follow Ulrich Dujardin’s change from an adult handicapped teacher in Dijon to a traditional Burgundian winemaker. Please look for the first post in the series: Outsider impacts Burgundy winemaking tradition, Part I.

Wine merchant and writer Kermit Lynch reflected on the French wine aesthetic in a 1998 Food and Wine article that underscores the importance of the region to the wine making process. He wrote that in order to understand the French wine culture, one must interpret or acknowledge the ‘goût de terroir.’ It “refers to the character or style or personality a certain vineyard site gives to its wines.”

For Ulrich Dujardin, winemaking is all about paying attention to detail and that includes all aspects of the winery. This gated entrance to the stone building warehouses the winemaking equipment, including the wine barrels stored the 12th-15th century caves below.

While this affects most bouteilles de vin de Bourgogne, I believe Ulrich Dujardin’s personality, character and style distinguish Domaine Dujardin, creating the distinctive features and flavor of his wine. Dujardin bet his future through the day-to-day operations and willed himself to become a vigneron, despite no family ties to Burgundy. He implemented his passion for reinvigorating the lives of disabled people. Ulrich took a personal interest in their lives through “hands-on” education. This zeal corresponds to his love for the land and winemaking.

Despite his nearly year-round schedule, Ulrich Dujardin, center, takes an hour or two each week to teach about his techniques to groups who visit his domain.

For the next 18 years, Dujardin poured himself into the Bouzerand winery. However, the vinification process gradually became more and more the product of Ulrich’s growing desire to own and vinify in an all-natural process rather than prized ways of the past. He insists on traditional methods, including nurturing the vines while avoiding pesticides or herbicides. He also oversees, and personally participates in, a completely hand-harvested crop. In fact, he continues to hire handicapped adults in the Domain Dujardin vineyards. He took over all aspects of the domaine, including a hands-on approach to pruning, harvesting, winemaking and marketing of all eight of the domaine’s appellations.

With the domain revived due to Dujardin’s attention to detail, Bouzerand* decided to sell Ulrich his half of the domaine in 2008.

Ulrich Dujardin, left, is the factor, the expertise, that helps marriage the taste of centuries in Monthelie. He has built a reputation on the traditional natural process, without the use of pesticides and herbicides, harvesting by hand.

The Parisian-born outsider, and now full-fledged Burgundian, redrew a new label, this time without the Bouzerand name for the first time. Ulrich now owns and operates Domain Dujardin as a sole proprietor on the slopes of Monthelie. The 12th and 15th century caves are now his to use and store the nine different appellations, including wines from four different communes: Beaune, nearby villages of Auxey-Duresses, Meursault, and of course, Monthelie.

“I am a committed to being a part of each stage of the (winemaking) process,” Ulrich said in French and translated to English by his wife, Catherine. “I trim vines, sorting in field, harvest grapes, and manage process from bunches to barrels and bottling.”

Catherine, shaking her head in agreement, also added that Ulrich was also available to other winemakers in the area to help them with their production. He also teaches winemaking techniques to groups who visit his domaine.

Domain Dujardin wines are created by a distinct personality and character that distinguish them a part of the Monthelie landscape and culture.

“Ulrich is always helping others,” Catherine said. “He still hires handicapped people to work in the vineyards and spending time with others who need help.” She paused and then added, “He works too much.” Catherine repeated the last sentence in French. Ulrich smiled, shrugged his shoulders and shook his head in agreement. He said something in French that I didn’t catch and Catherine didn’t repeat it.

Catherine did emphasize one last point before we finished dinner.

“Ulrich has a drive for people to like and appreciate what he does,” Catherine said. “He is so good; he always wants to help out others with their work, including in the fields, but he does not ask for any help himself. He has a big heart.”

As the evening drew to a close, and I finished the chocolate torte Ulrich’s daughter, Margaux, made, I asked him about further plans to grow the domain as his appellations usually sell out. His answer is simple. “Why, I already have enough?” His smile sent me adrift as he gestured to his home, the vineyards through the open window and family at the table.

Domaine Dujardin produces red and white wine, listing 10 appellations from four communes. His Village Meursault white is much sought after in Burgundy.

According to Burgundy Discovery’s Lynne Hammond, Domain Dujardin has already made a name for itself in French wine competitions and are currently sold in some Parisian wine shops.

“The Domaine’s (Dujardin) Premier Cru wines are regularly cited in the French publications: Le Guide Hachette des Vins (The Hachette Guide to Wines) and have been awarded 16 medals in the last few years, including five gold from the (Concours de Paris (General Agricultural Competition: Paris), Concours des Grands Vins de France de Mâcon (The Committee on Fairs, Competition National Fair of Wines and Macon) and the Burgundia d’Or Councours (Burgundy Wine Competition).”

–Lynne Hammond

Dujardin is also a member of the select group of Vignerons Independants (Independent Winegrowers) that typify the small, family domaines that dominate French winemakers.

“We’ve known Ulrich for 10 years,” Hammond said. “He was one of the first growers we met when David [husband] and I moved here from the UK to set up our business in the world of Burgundy wine. He is a passionate and caring man – about his family, friends, lifestyle and wines. This passion truly comes through in his wines, which are expressive and well-balanced. We always say passionate winemakers make passionate wines!”

In the same FoodandWine.com article listed above, Kermit Lynch describes that a French wine seems to “taste of centuries.”

“Goût de terroir is the result of complex interactions between many factors, such as grape variety, geology of the soil, climate and microclimate, topography, native yeasts and microbes, nearby vegetation and vinification. The genius of the French wine culture is founded on the ideal marriage of all these factors (and probably more), marriages perfected in each locale over centuries of trial, error and experience. The genius of the French wine culture is founded on the ideal marriage of all these factors (and probably more), marriages perfected in each locale over centuries of trial, error and experience.”

I believe Ulrich Dujardin is the factor, the expertise, that helps marriage the taste of centuries in Monthelie. He has built a reputation with a personal stake in the community and a sincere love of all human beings. Dujardin is willing to give more than he could ever get in return and exudes a sold-out attitude and desire to create masterpieces from his own backyard that are sure to outlive him.

Ulrich Dujardin, left, and Domain Dujardin produce five appellations of white and five of red wines, including two Premier Crus.

Come and meet Ulrich, with Lynne and David Hammond’s Bringing Burgundy to You wine weekend event alongside France’s largest Wine Fair – Salon des Vins des Vignerons Independants. This fair takes place in the old Flemish city of Lille, around 60 minutes north-east of Paris, between Nov. 16-19. Each year, 600 growers taking part, all of whom are Vignerons Independants. Meet Ulrich, taste his wines and enjoy a private gourmet dinner hosted by Ulrich, David and Lynne.

Ulrich Dujardin lives in the village of Monthelie with his wife, Catherine, and three children: Paul, Margaux and Luc.

For more information on Domaine Dujardin, visit the web site, check out Monthélie Vignerons or email Ulrich at domaine.dujardin@orange.fr. While it is difficult to get Domain Dujardin wines from the winery, often they can be purchased at local wine shops in the villages of Santenay, Meursault and Beaune.

For more information on Burgundy wine classifications, read my previous post.

Please return to www.talesoftheCork.com or email talesofthecork@gmail.com for updates on future availability of Domaine Dujardin wines.

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*Bouzerand: After Xavier Bouzerand retired from the domain in 2008, he opened a wood carving studio in Beaune where he can still be seen creating works of art with wood.

California Sierra Nevada Foothills Wine Region

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Sierra Foothills Wine Region

While many rush to Napa Valley and its world-renown labels, the Sierra Foothill Wine Region has been quietly making wine since the Gold Rush of the mid-1800s. Boom towns across the Sierra Nevada range popped up nearly overnight. Soon thereafter higher altitude vineyards were planted with Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah, Viognier and even some Grenache grapes in granite and volcanic rock. The region is characterized by mining and lumber towns, four seasons, vineyard elevations of 1,500-3,000 ft. and art enthusiasts.

While Napa and Sonoma Wine Regions were approved as appellations years before, the Foothill region was accepted as a sub appellation in the 1970s. The area can be easily reached from Sacramento (1 hour) or even San Francisco (2 1/2 hours); restaurants and wineries in the Foothill area already provide a good alternative to the many nationally known super stars of Napa Valley.

Zinfandel grapes were first grown in the Shenandoah Valley since Gold Rush days. Over 100 wineries sprouted by the mid 1840-50s and operated until the mid 1880s when the destruction of old-growth forests and riverbeds brought legislation to end those practices. Shortly thereafter, as thirsty gold miners and forestry personal left the area, winemaking in the foothills declined.

While winemaking continued even through Prohibition, the region has been known for value-wines until the rebirth of the industry in the 1970s. However, the late 1990s brought new life to the region as cult and boutique wineries have sprouted bringing high quality wine to the region.

Sierra Nevada Foothills Wine Region is a wine and vacation destination just like the Napa Valley or Central Coast. The Foothill region spans from Sonora in the south to Jackson and Plymouth to Placerville and Auburn in the north. The quaint villages, their restaurants, hotels and bed and breakfast establishments are well suited to the historic trails. And the history of Gold Rush country is well worth revisiting.

This is one of three California focus wine regions for Tales of the Cork. The other two are Central Valley Wine Region and the Central Coast Wine Region. All are within a day trip of my home base of Fresno, Calif. and account for many of America’s most promising wineries and winemakers.

Explore Tales of the Cork with me. Read about the growth and influence of California’s winemakers, merchants and chefs. My goal is to find and develop relationships with them; my hope is to uncover and retell their untold stories. Be sure to leave a comment after each story; share your wine, winemaker or food experience.

Salut!

California Central Coast Wine Region

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Central Coast Wine Region

Two and a half hours from the Central Valley is the ever expanding Central Coast wine region, located halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The region includes Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo and even as far south as Santa Barbara. Vines were planted by the Franciscan monks in the late 1790s and were tended to via the many California Missions that doted the region.

According to Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance’s, commercial winemaking was introduced to the area in the late 1870s:

“Indiana rancher Andrew York began planting vineyards on his 240-acre homestead. Within a few years, he found that the vines were yielding more than he could market, prompting him in 1882 to establish Ascension Winery, known today as York Mountain Winery. The family planted some of the area’s earliest Zinfandel vines, making Paso Robles is famous for this variety. York initially sold his wines in San Luis Obispo and eventually as far away as San Francisco. Today, York Mountain Winery (located within the York Mountain AVA, adjacent to the Paso Robles AVA ) remains the oldest winery in continuous operation in the county.”

Throughout the Central Coast, the distinct soils and weather create unique, world class wines from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles.

Today, a wide variety of wines are grown on the Central Coast using grape varietals like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Rhône varieties. The wines have received world class recognition with many wineries winning top awards. I believe that Robert M. Parker Jr.’s prediction in the June 30, 2005, issue of Wine Advocate has already come true: “There is no question that a decade from now, the top viticultural areas of Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and the limestone hillsides west of Paso Robles will be as well-known as the glamorous vineyards of Napa Valley.”

This is one of three California focus wine regions for Tales of the Cork. The other two are Central Valley Wine Region and the Sierra Nevada Foothills Wine Region. All are within a day trip of my home base of Fresno, Calif. and account for many of America’s most promising wineries and winemakers.

Explore Tales of the Cork with me. Read about the growth and influence of California’s winemakers, merchants and chefs. My goal is to find and develop relationships with them; my hope is to uncover and retell their untold stories. Be sure to leave a comment after each story; share your wine, winemaker or food experience.

Salut!

California’s Central Valley Wine Region

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Central Valley Wine Region

As my palate evolved, my interest in Californian wines has expanded, wanting to appreciate both the vintner and the production process. I am interested in sustainable wine practices and am thankful for the wide variety of wine choices. And now with wine regions’ climat changing, I am even more aware of how climate, terroir and winemakers may need to research new techniques in order to produce higher quality wines in the 200-mile long (Tehachapi Mountains south of Bakersfield, north to Fresno County and Madera Wine Trail and up the San Joaquin Valley to the city of Modesto in the north) Central Valley region.

According to the Fresno County Farm Bureau, Thompson grapes are the most common planted variety in vineyards across the Central Valley.

Additionally, Viticulturists in the Valley are exploring additional vine varietal opportunities which provide new options for regional growth. In fact, hot weather grape varieties have been planted similar to the ones in Portugal and Spain.

Hot Central Valley summers have produced wine grapes (Thompson) that are traditionally blended with other grape varietals. However, the Central Valley grown Muscat grape is becoming more popular with the 21-34 age group who enjoy sweet Muscato wine. Yet, some have doubts that this or other varieties can flourish in the inland valley’s hot temperatures. That being said, a 2011 UC-Davis Central Valley wine study shows how the Central Valley‘s value-priced wine production is projected to increase and has developed a niche in the marketplace, especially wines that are meant for blending. While jug wines and table grapes have carried the wine region through the 1980s, Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Viognier, Chardonnay and Merlot have also been planted in the last decade. In addition, the Central Valley has developed Tawny port and dessert wines that have gained a reputation outside of the region.

The Central Valley is one of three California focus wine regions for Tales of the Cork. The other two are the Sierra Nevada Foothills Wine Region and the Central Coast Wine Region. All are within a day trip of my home base of Fresno, Calif. and account for many of America’s most promising wineries and winemakers.

Explore Tales of the Cork with me. Read about the growth and influence of California’s winemakers, merchants and chefs. My goal is to find and develop relationships with them; my hope is to uncover and retell their untold stories. Be sure to leave a comment after each story; share your wine, winemaker or food experience.

Salut!

Celebrate Fresno Restaurant Week(s)

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The Fresno Regional Independent Business Alliance (FRIBA) was formed in late 2010 to educate, market and inform the public on the importance of supporting locally owned and independent businesses. One result of this group is Fresno Restaurant Week, now in its second year.

Actually it’s Fresno Restaurant Weeks, but whose counting.

Chef, Mike Shackelford, often visits with Trelio patrons each evening after serving the main dishes. Located in downtown Clovis, Trelio is one of 25 Fresno area restaurants participating in the two-week promotion.

In an effort to educate the area community about independent local restaurants, FRIBA along with six sponsors, have listed 25 eateries for the 2012 Fresno Restaurant Week, July 20-Aug. 3. Amy Huerta, who works for the City of Fresno as the Local Business Initiative Manager, says that FRIBA serves all kinds of local businesses; Fresno Restaurant Week is just one way to grow area commerce and provide traction to develop the organization.

“I work for the City of Fresno, promoting independent businesses,” Huerta said, “and while I am not paid by the city to assist FRIBA, I do work with local business owners on how to develop the organization. My role is to help strategize Fresno Restaurant Week, including managing the promotion and media. I also partner with the organization to find innovative ways to educate our community.”

All 25 restaurants have paid a $500 fee in a cooperative marketing action plan. Huerta believes FRIBA not only has tremendous growth potential for the sponsors and businesses who participate, but also sees the organization developing and expanding to include other smaller cafes, bistros or restaurants who could not afford this year’s promotion.

“The impact of events like Fresno Restaurant Week are so important to understand. It’s an example of local businesses banding together in order to promote each other, and by doing so, improve the local community.”
–Amy Huerta, City of Fresno’s Local Business Initiative Manager.

“We are only a start-up organization,” Huerta said. “While we sent cards of ‘Save The Date’ to over 200 restaurants and actually visited many of those, not all could participate. We hope to expand Fresno Restaurant Week to twice a year. Hopefully more will be able to participate and the cost per business should go down. Our hope is to include even more smaller independent owners.”

According to Huerta, the $500 fee the 25 restaurants paid is projected to provide about $12,000 in advertising. Each participating restaurant posts a poster listing all participating eateries. They all put aside competition for the power of group marketing.

The auto industry learned a piece of this strategy years ago when they banded together and now can be located in auto centers rather than spaced miles apart.

Piazza Del Pane has a $22 pre-fix dinner menu which includes an appetizer, choice of entree, dessert, and a glass of wine.

FRIBA is not just for restaurants. According to their FRIBA’s web site, “Research shows that when a dollar is spent at a locally owned and independent business, on average that dollar will re-circulate three times the amount of money back into our local economy when compared to that same dollar spent at a chain business.”

This is true whether purchases are made from one of the local farmer’s markets to the guy who repairs shoes. A list of the FRIBA membership is on their web site; each pays $150 annual fee.

“The impact of events like Fresno Restaurant Week are so important to understand,” Huerta said. “It’s an example of local businesses banding together in order to promote each other, and by doing so, improve the local community. This is a great, innovative way for the people of Fresno and Clovis to try restaurants they wouldn’t normally visit and try new things. And it is good for the restaurants to try new price fix menus.”

Other cities across the country have organized restaurant weeks, including New York City and San Francisco. In fact, the Open Table, an Internet restaurant reservations site has a special web address just to organize Restaurant Week Specials and Prix-Fixe Menu Offers from Coast to Coast.

So Fresno County, while the chain restaurants like Denny’s, Outback Steakhouse or Olive Garden might be your favorite, consider opening up your wallet or purse for one of the locally owned independent diners, bistros, restaurants or cafes. Invite a friend or couple to join up for a night on the town. Most of the Fresno Restaurant Week participants have their special menus posted online. Scroll down to review each one, choose a place to eat and make a reservation. The coffers of Fresno County will be glad you did.

Salut!

In an effort to educate the area community about independent local restaurants, FRIBA along with six sponsors, have listed 25 eateries for the 2012 Fresno Restaurant Week, July 20-Aug. 3. (Illustration used by permission)